Only a few tall buildings were in place when 31-year-old Samir Shanny was growing up in West Bay, just north of Doha’s central zone, and none of them sparkled the way the Qatari capital’s skyline has as host of the World Cup soccer tournament.Shanny remembers jumping onto his bicycle, finding a few friends and trekking down dirt paths that extended across the Connecticut-sized Arab Gulf nation. Those paths have been replaced by multilane highways linking Doha to a widening multitude of other cities that have blossomed in the desert since the 1990s.“People only ever talk about the bad when it comes to Qatar,” Shanny said in an interview. “Nobody talks about how 20 years ago this was all desert and now it’s full of skyscrapers.”Indeed, in the lead-up to the World Cup, international media outlets scrambled to accentuate the negative, whether it was the heat, the state of gender rights or the accusations of abuses of many of the millions of foreign workers who built the infrastructure and stadiums hosting one of the world’s greatest sports spectacles.They have paid less attention to the nearly inconceivable transformation that Qatar has undergone over the past three decades: from a sleepy Arab backwater to a globally connected power player with dozens of shining skyscrapers, including the cylindric Doha Tower that opened in 2012.The transformation accelerated after Qatar shocked the world in 2010 by being chosen as the first Middle Eastern nation to host the World Cup.People who grew up here have a unique perspective largely overlooked by a world intently focused only on the soccer pitch.“We have seen barren lands of sands turn into cities. Dead ends turn into a whole different world beyond Doha,” said Anushka Mohapatra, a graduate student in the United States who was born in Qatar.“It’s almost nostalgic to see how much everything has changed, transformed and developed over time, especially when Doha first won the [World Cup] bid. It seems so unreal,” Mohapatra said. “It’s been amazing and overwhelming in a way to see how Qatar has progressed and developed.”Roots of a transformationThe changes and the money that has financed them go back decades before Shanny or Mohapatra was born.Life changed forever in 1971 with the discovery just off Qatar’s Arabian Gulf coastline of the largest known natural gas field on Earth. The finding soon enriched the tiny nation and propelled its ruling monarchy to lay the ambitious groundwork for the dramatic growth and internationalisation that now defines Qatar.In the early 1970s, just 130,000 people, mostly poor and predominantly Arab, were living in Qatar. By 2000, the population had more than quadrupled with a widening patchwork of immigrants and guest workers — especially from impoverished corners of South Asia — pouring into the country to satiate its need for labour.Qatar now has a population of nearly 3mn, including some 700,000 in Doha.During the World Cup, some have reflected on the transformation that has been playing out their whole lives.Kelandeth Abdulkader first landed in Qatar in 1960 at the age of 27. “I have grown up seeing the development of this country from a desert to a dreamland,” Abdulkader wrote recently in a firsthand report published by the Doha News.Shamat Khan, who has lived in Qatar since the 1970s, marvelled at the transformation. “It’s wonderful. You cannot imagine. It grew so fast, and now it’s so beautiful,” he said. “There was nothing here before the 2000s. There were very few roads, and now they are everywhere.”The pace of construction has been profoundly disorienting at times. Taxi drivers in Doha have been known to complain about traffic routes changing nightly as a result of constant development. Residents compare it to living in a construction project, alongside some 1.7mn mostly Nepali, Indian and Pakistani guest workers.Change at the topIt wasn’t just money that influenced the rapid transformations. Qatar’s initial development can be attributed to the two most recent Amirs of the ruling monarchy, analysts say.Since the 1800s, the House of Thani has been the ruling family.His Highness Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani assumed power in 1995 and is credited with having “ushered in wide-sweeping political and media reforms, unprecedented economic investment, and a growing Qatari regional leadership role,” according to the CIA World Factbook.His Highness Sheikh Hamad opened an inward-looking society to the world and transformed it from a conservative Islamic country into a worldwide educational, developmental and commercial hub. He served as Amir until 2013.By the late 1990s, the Qatari government had established Al Jazeera, the international news network that quickly brought a jolt of energy and controversy to the Arab-language television media piped into millions of homes across the Middle East.Al Jazeera’s reporting gave Qatari leaders outsized influence over regional public opinion. The network is now one of the biggest players on the global media stage and is known for its critical coverage of the powers that be in the Arabian Gulf.His Highness Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa opened Qatar’s borders to the international community soon after taking power. In 2008, a pilot programme was launched for a 2030 development vision through four interconnected initiatives focused on human, social, economic and environmental development, according to the Qatari Government Communication Office.Qatar is the world’s largest exporter of liquefied natural gas, and its exports of LNG, crude oil and other petroleum products account for a significant portion of government revenue. In 2021, “hydrocarbon revenue contributed around 37% of Qatar’s GDP, a 9% increase from 2020,” according to a recent report by the International Trade Administration.Architects from around the world have descended on Qatar since the late 1990s to create a world-class sports and education destination as envisioned by His Highness Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani.After officially receiving the bid for the World Cup in 2010, the government intensified its plans. His Highness Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, His Highness Sheikh Hamad’s son and the current Amir of Qatar, has continued his father’s legacy of modernisation.Human rights and reformsQatari officials said they aim to have the entire nation connected via Qatar Rail by the end of the decade. A Danish engineer working to build the network said the goal involves the expansion of a newly minted metro rail system beyond Doha and surrounding cities.The Doha subway currently serves 37 stations on about 46 miles of track, all built in the past 12 years. Roughly 60 more stations are expected by 2026. Plans have been made to connect the northern town of Al Khor with the southern town of Mesaieed and more western tracks toward Industrial City as part of Qatar’s 2030 vision.The World Cup is not the end goal. Qatar is eyeing a bid to host the 2036 Olympics and the world cricket championships. Officials say the infrastructure now in place, along with what is in the works, will only strengthen the bids.Still, the campaign is likely to keep a bright spotlight on Qatar’s labour standards and its laws regarding human rights. The country has enacted a raft of reforms in recent years, including the partial dismantling of a system that tied workers to their employers, and approved a minimum wage. The United Nations and human rights groups praised the changes.Critics say abuses, including unpaid wages and harsh working conditions in some of the worst desert heat around the globe, are still widespread. Workers are barred from forming unions or striking, they say, and have few realistic avenues to pursue justice.Human Rights Watch noted last month that HE Hassan al-Thawadi, secretary-general of Qatar’s Supreme Committee for Delivery and Legacy, acknowledged in a TV interview that 400 to 500 migrant workers had died in 12 years from construction projects.Education and sportsQatar’s reach into international sports competitions is not the only focus. The Qatar Foundation, created in 1995, has employed different strategies to boost the country’s educational system and resources, including an Education City.By the mid-2000s, several universities from the United States, Europe and across the Middle East had opened satellite campuses in Education City. “Investing in the human commodity is the most important thing,” Qatar Foundation President Saad al-Muhannadi said in a 2014 interview with MEED, a publication focused on the Middle East.“[The aim was] introducing quality educational programmes and building research to be part of our culture,” he said. “That is why we are so keen on mandating that every programme and initiative of Qatar Foundation has to have research and development and quality be part of it.”The Qatar Foundation said it is investing in sports for men and women. It has specifically touted plans for a post-World Cup use of Education City Stadium as “a hub for sport, development and education and a home for women and girls sports at every level.”It is clearly sports that has kick-started Qatar’s effort to revamp its global image.Qatar hosted the Asia Games, its first major international sporting event, in 2006 and claims to have since hosted more than 600 international and regional events. In June, Qatar 2022 CEO Nasser al-Khater told Doha News that plans include a world handball championship, a weightlifting title and a Formula One auto race in the next decade.Qatar Foundation official Alexandra Chalat wrote recently in the organisation’s newsletter that the Qatari organisers are considering ways to build on the “legacy” of the World Cup, even with the matches yet to conclude.“How are we using an event, where the world is watching, to enable genuine learning and development?” she wrote. “And how are we doing that amidst controversy, media backlash and cultural clashes?”* Guy Taylor contributed to this report.