The rise of mod watches has prompted a debate among collectors: can a thoughtfully assembled DIY piece hold its own against entry-level luxury models?
According to Doha-based collector Dr Eddy Borges-Rey, the answer depends largely on the movement. “From the perspective of the movement alone, mods typically rely on affordable but robust calibres, Sellita, ETA, or Seiko’s NH and 4R series,” he told Gulf Times.
Borges-Rey continued, “These are workhorse movements with fairly standard architecture, which makes them easier to assemble, disassemble, and service down the line. That alone is a significant advantage.”
He pointed out that many luxury watches continue to use ETA movements, and most owners either do not know or do not mind. “So, purely from the perspective of the inner workings of the timepiece, a well-built mod competes quite closely with both entry-level and even some high-end watches,” he emphasised.
Borges-Rey said differences emerge in the choice of components beyond the movement, noting that modders decide whether to use sapphire or acrylic crystal, what quality of bezel insert, and what grade of case finishing.
“Each choice tracks your budget. So, a thoughtfully built mod can punch well above its price, but the ceiling is real because you won’t get the case finishing, the bracelet engineering, or the brand provenance of a Grand Seiko or a JLC. That’s where mods fall short, and that’s fine; they’re not pretending otherwise,” he said.
Movements themselves also vary in quality tiers: “A Seiko NH35 is reliable and easy to service, but it sits at a different accuracy and finishing tier than a Miyota 9015 or a Sellita SW200. ETA and Sellita movements also come in different grades (standard, elaboré, top, chronometre), and the price difference reflects real differences in regulation and finishing.”
He stated that serviceability is a major advantage for mod watches. “These movements are serviceable by virtually any competent watchmaker, anywhere in the world. That’s a big plus. With certain in-house calibres, you may be locked into sending the piece back to the manufacturer, which can mean months of waiting and considerable cost,” he said.
Borges-Rey said, “And as you become more confident in your assembly skills, you tend to become more adventurous in terms of complications. You might start with a simple time-only build, then move on to a date, then perhaps a chronograph or even a full calendar.”
He further explained: “Each step up obviously affects the budget, and each one makes the build a bit more challenging, but that progression is part of the appeal.”