Mod (or modified) watches are carving out a niche in horology, offering enthusiasts the chance to build their own timepieces from scratch rather than buying them ready-made.
“Mod watches are essentially DIY builds. Rather than buying a finished piece off the shelf, you assemble one yourself, picking the movement, the case, the dial, the bezel, the hands, the crown, and the strap,” Doha-based watch connoisseur Dr Eddy Borges-Rey told Gulf Times in an exclusive interview.
Borges-Rey, an associate professor in residence at the Department of Journalism and Strategic Communication at Northwestern University in Qatar, likens the practice to “Lego for watch geeks,” where every component is sourced separately and assembled to personal taste.
The phenomenon first drew his attention while exploring restoration videos online, according to Borges-Rey. “Once I started getting curious about how a watch actually works, I ended up watching a lot of restoration videos, and from there the mod scene found me,” he explained.
For many, “modding” is more than a hobby, Borges-Rey further explained. It is a teaching environment where collectors learn how a movement seats in a case, how hands are fitted without damage, and what a properly regulated balance feels like, he pointed out.
This educational aspect is one of three main drivers of mod culture, he emphasised. The second, Borges-Rey noted, stems from the state of the watch market itself. “Over the past few years, the industry has pushed a number of overhyped references that are genuinely difficult to find at retail.
“To get one, you often have to pay a considerable premium on the grey market. So, some enthusiasts turn to mods as a way to emulate those watches using affordable components.”
The third driver is individuality, said Borges-Rey, adding that modding allows collectors to create a watch that nobody else owns in quite the same configuration. “A sort of pièce unique assembled to your particular preference, without having to sell a kidney to get there,” he said.
However, not everyone is convinced, as some collectors dismiss mods as imitations of established designs. “I don’t think it’s fair to dismiss mod culture. Of course, many collectors won’t feel the appeal of modding, and that’s perfectly fine; it isn’t for everyone. But I genuinely believe there is value in having a space where you can engage with a watch beyond the aesthetic or the status,” Borges-Rey pointed out.
DIY kits, which package components and basic tools together, are particularly popular. “At the end of it, you don’t just end up with a fairly unique watch on your wrist, you’ve also had the experience of putting it together yourself. That changes your relationship with the object. You understand why it ticks, quite literally, and that understanding is something no boutique purchase can give you,” he emphasised.