I agree to this statement by J J Frank Dobie, a former journalist, folklorist and rancher: “Every true Texan has two prides: his hometown and the Alamo.”
My trip to the Alamo began as a teenager when my grandfather first took me to the storied mission. I was appropriately awed at being in the spot where 189 defenders took their last stand against a Mexican army of several thousand. They held out for 13 days, resulting in everlasting glory and the birth of a nation (yes, Texas was a nation before it was a state.)
Over the years, I have returned to the Alamo many times, most recently this past April while I was in town for Fiesta San Antonio. The tiny mission (one of five in the city) will always be sacred ground to me.
The Fiesta and the Alamo are forever intertwined as one of the former’s premier attractions, the Battle of Flowers Parade, began in 1891 to honour the heroes of Texas independence at Goliad, San Jacinto and of course, the Alamo. Since the parade passes right in front of Alamo Plaza, many of the colourful floats pause for the laying of flowers at the Cenotaph. Seeing float riders hop off with bouquets of yellow roses in hand has been known to cause even non-Texans to tear up.
Don’t worry, all is not high drama in this parade which has evolved into one of the largest in the country (this year’s had 45 floats and 26 marching bands.) There is humour as well. Many of the floats feature princesses decked out in elaborate beaded gowns depicting everything from the Texas flag to the flora and fauna of the state.
Elaborate they may be, but the gowns aren’t the clothing item most paradegoers want to see. Chants of “show us your ... boots” echo through the crowd, with the young ladies obligingly raising their voluminous skirts to show off equally elaborate footwear.
The Battle of Flowers Parade is a highlight, but over the festival’s 10-day run, activities range from a mariachi Mass at San Fernando Cathedral to art fairs and musical performances to boat parades on the San Antonio River and celebrations in the city’s La Villita (Little Village.)
The largest of the La Villita celebrations is ‘A Night in Old San Antonio (NIOSA),’ a four-night gathering honouring the diverse cultures that shaped the city.
From Froggy Bottom to Frontier Town, Irish Flats to Sauerkraut Bend, the 15 culturally themed areas take over parts of La Villita. They offer food and entertainment from not only South of the Border, but from unexpected places such as China, the Canary Islands, Germany and the Czech Republic, all of which had an impact on the city.
Helpful hint: Be sure to wear comfortable shoes as there is a lot of ground to cover, and loose-fitting clothing as it will probably be hot. Ear plugs might come in handy as well since music ranging from Irish folk ballads and Spanish guitars to German oompah bands and country/western groups reverberates throughout La Villita (loudly, I might add). Still, if the large crowds are any indication, NIOSA is a must during Fiesta.
Of course, the major influence in San Antonio is that of Mexico (and by association, Spain), understandable since the city was once the capital of Mexican Texas. Learn the colourful history at such places as the Spanish Governor’s Palace in the Plaza des Armas and the chain of missions that encircle the city (San Jose, San Juan Capistrano, Espada and Concepcion.) The missions, including the Alamo, make up the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park, and have received global recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The oldest of the missions, San Jose, is known for its beautiful rose window.
No one comes to San Antonio without spending time on the Riverwalk, browsing the shops, taking a narrated cruise passing under cypress canopies and elaborate stone bridges, and sampling the food. For the best Tex-Mex, grab a riverside table at the Iron Cactus. Try to see a performance at the Arneson River Theatre where the stage is on one side of the river and the audience on the other.
A massive 10-year restoration has brought it back to life as San Antonio’s trendiest district with an abundance of entertainment options and restaurants housed in painstakingly restored buildings.
Check out the weekend Farmers Market where nearly 50 vendors offering products coming from within a 150-mile radius of the city represent the South Texas agricultural, ranching and artisanal food communities.
All of this culinary largesse has been influenced by the Culinary Institute of America, which opened a third branch in the Pearl District. The CIA is open for tours and cooking classes.
You’ll have to leave the Pearl District to experience two of San Antonio’s must-visit dining establishments. Reserve a table for brunch at La Panaderia, a Mexican bakery specialising in long-fermented Latin American breads.
Then head back to the Riverwalk and try to snag a table at Restaurant Gwendolyn (with only 12 tables, reservations are a must). If you do get in, you’ll have bragging rights over those who tried and failed.
The food is superb, all local and within a tight radius of the city. What’s remarkable, however, is that in the fishbowl of a kitchen (it’s both tiny and visible to a portion of the dining room), there are no electrical gadgets. The kitchen staff is devoted to preparing food as they did in the 1850s, pre-kitchen technology.
Try the seven-course tasting menu, which my friend and I would have done at another time. We had to ‘settle’ for an abbreviated menu as we were dining here before the Fiesta grand finale, the Flambeau Parade.
This year’s theme was ‘Reflections of Music Past’ and the beautifully illuminated floats were worthy of the estimated 750,000 spectators along the 2.6-mile parade route, as well as another 1.5 million watching it on their television sets.
One musical reflection that was definitely not from the past, the University of Texas Longhorn Band. got the loudest ovation from the crowd. In their spiffy burnt orange and white uniforms, the high-stepping band kicked off the parade just as it has for the past 71 years.
Fiesta is a perfect expression of the colour and pageantry of this culturally distinctive city, as unique to San Antonio as Mardi Gras is to New Orleans. So, join in the revelry and add your voice to the chant heard throughout the city ‘Viva Fiesta!’ – TNS
LARGEST PARADE: Many of the floats feature princesses decked out in elaborate beaded gowns depicting everything from the Texas, flag to the flora and fauna of the state, takes part in Battle of Flowers Parade, one of the largest parades in the country.
