By Muhammad Asad Ullah
Diversity and pushing boundaries have never been hotter in the fashion industry and this isn’t just a trend, it’s a reality. Seeing some British models sashaying down the runway in London in the fluid silhouettes, signature drapes and haute couture pieces of Pakistani fashion designers – is pure joy.
This December, 14th edition of Pakistan Fashion Week London, PR by Aamir Mazhar, took everyone in London on a whirlwind—and impossibly stylish — tour to intricate details of Pakistani couture lines and bridal wears. This odyssey is all thanks to the globally minded designers who simply refuse to see the borders. PFW London has undoubtedly conceived to allow Pakistani fashion to gain a foothold in the global fashion scene – an affair to display the Pakistan fashion trends to an international audience.
If one were to chalk up the most defining qualities of the millennial Pakistani bride, attributes like individualistic, risk-taker, bold and unconventional would play the game to the most. And PFW London was a clear retort that caterwauled, that today’s bride wants her sartorial repertoire to be a narrative of her personality and sensibility; she wants her ensembles to be as high on comfort as they are on style. Lehengas, saris, kurtas – bright pink, sea of ivories or darker hues; which designer actually meshed the right traditional silhouette with modernity for millennial bride? Here’s a run-down to the top designer showcases.
Effortless elegance combines with strong detailing and experimental styles. Classics with a twist and dash of colours where flowers met embroideries – a rich shade of green and interesting panels of sequins work, predictable yet sparkling collection by Aneesa. With beautiful colour combinations the silhouettes were mostly modern, running the gamut from harem shalwars to anarkali, angrakhas, off shoulder blouses, full length trailing gowns and the inevitable lehngas. The rich layering to raise motifs, dabka and gota-work particularly stood out.
Attire by Bushra Wahid Making a strong case for pastel, Bushra’s collection featured festive wears – everything one can effortlessly pull off for an evening. It featured nothing too extra or bling – subtle line of work, with traditional cuts and lines – staying true to Pakistani fashion with all the lace work, fabric and gotta work. Sexy cigarette pants were tailored to perfection! There was no innovation in silhouette, craft and palette, but hey this was a retail collection – that could easily be sold out for contemporary wearers. Safe collection to play with Bushra!
Maroon, nudes and corals; Dabbka, gotta and zarri work making a heavy case for Bridals in Aisha’s case. Glittering with sequins, blending colours, merging the embellished shirt with the embellished lehnga and layering it up with the embellished dupatta; If you haven’t realised it already, embellishment was the most noticeable feature in this collection. Too much banarsi wear but its traditional and if you can pull it off – why not! The designs followed ethnic silhouettes and embellishment techniques, playing with plenty of silk, chiffon dupattas and embroideries running in a mish-mash of colour that merged well, well sometimes. Purple with maroon was block yet pleasing for some, at least for us.
On a predominantly shimmery palette of maroons and tangerine with occasional pops of colour, Aisha’s collection featured traditional bridal silhouettes: ghararas, lehnga cholis and knee light heavily embroidered shirts. Silhouettes stayed safe, though, not really bothering to set new trends. One model was on the ramp wearing black stocking under a lehnga that popped out of her heels. Wait? What? Invest your time in every detail, such things ruin the entire look.
Popping with colours, the entire collection was a visual treat to contemporary silhouettes. Some sexy backlines, prints and minimalism took over the runway. The colour range ran wide, from ivory to pastels, fuschia and bright pink, this collection marked Shirin’s definitive run for the limelight. Designs were
well-constructed and neat, embellished with a pleasing mix of shimmer and embroidery. The collection was very put out featuring ensembles for every wedding festive one requires – from yellow opulence to black and maroon elegance. Setting up the beat for Pakistani fashion in London.
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