A global city with global values

Hong Kong. It’s a frenetic mix of sky-high views, even higher prices and what is arguably the most breathtaking cityscape on Earth. This month’s episode of CNN’s new travel series  In 24 Hours  explores the most exclusive and elusive experiences the city has to offer.
The city with its name translating to “fragrant harbour” is a swirling mix, where old China mingles with old England, and the resulting brew collides head on with new China. It’s been over 18 years since the British handover – and Hong Kong is seen by many of its current inhabitants as having a somewhat uncertain future.
With many locals unsure of not only where the island is heading politically, but also culturally and socially, the real question is: where does it stand between East and West?
Politics aside, nowhere is the city’s struggle to discover its identity better demonstrated than in the changing nature of its favourite pastime: exploring the city after dark. If Hong Kong were an animal, it’d definitely be a night owl.
For me, the evening begins with the cultural: a visit to the Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra. Yet even here, change is sweeping through.
Its 85 members fuse traditional Chinese instruments like the stringed Jinghu, with some of their own creations. Like the “Eco-gehu”, which looks like a rather odd bass guitar and drum mix. They meld the old and the new together, and while still playing the Chinese classics, have recognised that the future lies in more contemporary music.
As conductor Chew Hee-chiat explains: “We base a lot of our music on the traditional repertoire, and we have to be good at it too because you can’t let this route go. Yet at the same time we must broaden our repertoire and our skills to fit with society’s progress. It should be an orchestra for the whole world.”
From entrepreneurs to the upwardly mobile, bar staff to students, it’s the basis of the message I heard over and over again. Think of it as the millennial’s message. This is a global city, with global values – and they don’t want that to change.
And while Hong Kong may now be Chinese land – many here consider it a country unto herself.
Someone who doesn’t share in any pessimism, is quintessential Hong Kong “It girl” Lindsay Jang. Entrepreneur, restaurateur and tattoo aficionado, she runs one of the most achingly hip spots on the island – Yardbird.
It’s been difficult to get a table here since it opened in 2011, and not much has changed since. It offers dishes like “KFC”, Korean fried cauliflower.
To Lindsay, Hong Kong is in safe hands. “When the British gave Hong Kong back to China, they didn’t know what was going to happen, and then they realised that Hong Kong is fine. It’s safe. It’s a Special Administrative Region.”
The city’s next generation, Cantonese-speaking yet Western educated millennials, have studied abroad and now returned home with a heightened expectation for their night time exploits. “They are demanding a new level, places that remind them of where they hung out when they went to school in New York, Boston, LA or London,” claims Jang.
A desire, which has blended well with the city’s long history of private members clubs, a carryover from the days of British colonial rule. Some of the most famous are of course the Hong Kong Club and the Foreign Correspondents’ Club, but today, a new generation of upstarts has begun. Such as Kee Club – creating old world opulence, for new media creatives. Think of it as a harbour side Soho House.
Perhaps I’ve been asking the wrong question all along. Hong Kong’s future is neither truly with China or Britain, old or new: it’s both and yet at the same time, neither.
Hong Kong has an identity that is distinctly its own. Chaotic and cosmopolitan, historic and still history-making, it’s charting its own path.
“There’s so much passion in Hong Kong, with so many different people bringing so much to the table. Hong Kong is one of – if not the most – international city in the world,” states Jang’s friend, Raphael Holzer matter-of-factly. Cheers to that!

- James Williams is host of  In 24 Hours  on CNN International