THE DESIGNER: Emraan Rajput; FORTE: Emraan Rajput specialises in cuts and embellishments and APPLAUSE: The audience applauded Rajput for his Beend collection. Photos by Umer Nangiana
By Umer Nangiana
Starting humbly with no formal training in the aesthetic of cuts and embellishments, Emraan Rajput has carved a niche for himself among the very best of the industry in a very short span of time. From just ‘an upcoming designer’ five years ago, he now sets trends in men’s wear in Pakistan.
With a special forte in cuts, fabric and embellishments done with his marked individuality, Emraan Rajput is a popular choice brand for grooms. This is the reason why when he appeared on the ramp with models flaunting his latest collection of Beend (Groom), Rajput received a minute-long ovation from the audience at Mercedes-Benz Pakistan Fashion Week Doha (PFWD) 2015 held here recently.
He says he designs with focus on a normal person, walking on a street wearing a shalwar kameez (Pakistan’s national dress) or a person going to his job or planning his wedding outfit. He describes his collections as ‘international styling with a traditional soul.’
With the vision to create products that combine great personal style with long lasting utility, Rajput holds clean modern shapes with “a nod to the classics and an element of surprise” as fundamental principles of his design philosophy.
Backstage at PFWD, we sat down with this talented designer from Pakistan to listen to his story, in his own words, about his meteoric rise from no one to one of the most sought after designers in Pakistan and elsewhere.
“I am from a family of businessmen. And as per tradition, they wanted me to join them in the family business but I refused. I decided to follow my passion, which is fashion. So when I started, my family did not support me at all,” Rajput says.
After finishing his BBA (Honors) degree, he shifted his focus completely towards fashion designing. He started his work with whatever he saved from his pocket money.
Once he started getting orders, the aspiring designer started making some money. He continued to saved up, to launch his first collection of designs at Karachi Fashion Week in 2010.
“Nothing is easy to achieve. There are always difficulties in your way. All you need to do is not to give up. I stayed determined and I have achieved what I was aiming for,” says Rajput.
He started creating cuts and designs out of his imagination, which remains his hallmark to this day. Before he actually started designing, the designer says he was always thinking about fashion and in fashion.
“I used to visualise everything in a fashionable way. I always liked well-dressed people. It all started from home I believe. Growing up, I saw my family members and particularly my father taking extra care in selecting his suits and always dressing up well,” says the iconic designer of men’s wear.
Rajput has not had formal training or education in fashion and design. He started with trying to capture the ideas crossing his mind, transferring them onto fabric cut in the style he would visualise. Initially, Rajput says, he did face problems but then his friends came to his help.
Apart from being his first customers, they encouraged him to carry on with his work.
“I worked really hard to get to a point where I was finally able to formally launch my brand in 2010. It was followed by a showcase of my collection at Lahore Fashion Week organised by Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC). Since then, there has been no looking back,” recalls the designer. He is wearing his own design, a chocolate brown suit two-piece with his initials, ER, printed right on the top left corner of his jacket.
While Rajput does acknowledge the importance of getting formal education in the field of your interest, he largely believes in the power of talent. “If you have what I call the ‘creativity bug’ in you, you can sometimes get away with lack of formal training for instance. I believe a true artist is a gifted one and that gift is his aptitude, his talent in whatever field it may be,” suggests the designer.
He says Sunsilk PFDC Fashion Week 2011 provided him the break he was looking for. It gave his brand recognition. It was his second collection that was in all-black. He had introduced very unique cuts and designs into the market which people appreciated.
Compared to a few years ago, more people have started wearing designer clothes on their weddings. They would sit down with their designers and discuss their wedding day outfits for instance. Rajput notes this as an encouraging trend for the fashion industry.
He says in most cases, the prices set by designers are justified as there is always a difference between an exclusive and a regular product.
“Designers work hard and I think they deserve the money they ask for their products. They are after all giving you a quality product which would make you stand out,” he replies when asked if the high prices of designer clothes repel customers.
At one point in his career, he did feel the need for formal education in fashion and design which, he feels, opens up many avenues for you in today’s competitive market.
“To make your brand survive and evolve in the market, you have no option but to hire fashion graduates. You have to work with them to constantly develop new designs so it is important that your thinking matches theirs,” notes Rajput.
He advises all new comers in the industry to come equipped. “I could not unfortunately get formal education in fashion but I would advise the newcomers to study fashion and design before stepping in to this industry. It will give you an edge over the competition,” he goes on to add.
However, he says he has seen people with degrees from abroad failing. This is where it comes to talent, and a bit of luck, in the end.
“I consider myself very lucky and I am thankful to God for all the respect and recognition I have received not just in Pakistan but outside as well. People like my designs in India, London, Europe and Middle East. I have set up my business in Dubai as well,” says the designer.
Emraan Rajput is easily available at outlets across Pakistan. Soon he is launching an online sale service. People would get their orders delivered at their doorstep within four days.
PFWD was his second participation in a fashion week here in Doha. In 2014, he had presented an Arabic collection of ‘Kandura.’
“I have enjoyed being here in Doha. I like the way people here take keen interest in fashion and the way they like being fashionable. People here wanted to see the collections from Pakistani fashion designers. It was amazing to see them appreciating our designs,” says Rajput, referring to the packed house at the show.
Rajput is the most dynamic in the ranks of emerging designers from Karachi. He deals in urban or western wear, and the more traditional wear such as shalwar kurta and sherwanis (traditional Pakistani dress).
He won the Best Designer Award in 2013 and has showcased his collections at fashion weeks across Pakistan.
