Fancy yellow diamond pendant.  Photo credit: Sotheby’s. RIGHT: Pair of Colombian emerald and diamond earrings.

By Umer Nangiana

 

Before they go on sale in a month’s time in Geneva, a collection of unique creations of multi-million dollar jewels from some of the world’s most renowned jewellers has landed in Doha for public viewing.

The showcase includes some of the most stunning jewels along with jewellery of historic value including Queen Josephine’s natural pearl and diamond necklace. The exhibition, currently underway at Katara Art Centre (KAC), Building 5 in Katara Cultural Village, has been brought to Doha by none other than Sotheby’s, one of the world’s oldest and biggest brokers and auction houses for decorative art, jewellery, real estate and collectibles.

This exhibition of highlights from its ‘Magnificent Jewels’ sale in Geneva in November coincides with Sotheby’s exhibition of all 53 works of art to be offered for sale in Sotheby’s Doha auction of Middle Eastern and International Contemporary Art, which is also on view at KAC, prior to the auction itself at the same venue on October 13 at 7pm.

“Sotheby’s Geneva will hold its autumn sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels on November 12, bringing together a stunning selection of finest diamonds and precious stones, alongside unique creations from some of the world’s most renowned jewellers,” said Sotheby’s press statement.  

The sixteen treasures, to be presented on the occasion of Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale are estimated to bring a total of more than Swiss Francs (CHF)17mn (in the region of $20mn).

An ensemble of exceptional jewels and gems from the collection of Dimitri Mavrommatis, including the exquisite Graff Ruby, a superb Kashmir sapphire weighing 27.54 carats, and delightful pieces by the celebrated jeweller JAR are on display for the people of Qatar.

With a rich history in pearl fishing and housing collectors with a fine taste and eye for quality, Doha has been selected as one of the few venues in the world where Sotheby’s has decided to exhibit the stunning jewels and precious stones prior to their sale in Geneva.  

On view during the Doha exhibition is a selection of beautiful and highly important jewels from the collection of Dimitri Mavrommatis, who was listed as one of the top 10 biggest collectors of 2012 by Business Insider.

“This fine collection brings together very rare precious stones and avant-garde jewellery designs, reflecting the unerring instinct of this consummate collector, and placing it among the most important ensembles of jewels and gemstones,” said Sotheby’s, describing the collector’s taste.

Mavrommatis is a Paris-based Greek art collector who made his fortune in investment banking and asset-management. Having an extensive collection of post-war and modern art, Mavrommatis is known to have paid around $28mn in June 2011 for one of Picasso’s famous paintings of Dora Maar.

“This outstanding collection presents exquisite gemstones, such as the sensational Graff Ruby, alongside stunning jewellery creations by JAR. It is a testament to Dimitri Mavrommatis’ discerning eye and impeccable taste, and presents a rare opportunity to acquire gems and jewels of exceptional quality,’’ said David Bennett, Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Division for Europe and the Middle East while describing the jewels.

However, leading this unique jewellery collection is the exceptionally important and exquisite Graff Ruby, weighing 8.62 carats. The cushion-shaped Burmese stone possesses the rare vivid red hue known as ‘pigeon’s blood’, according to a report from the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), and is also of outstanding purity and superb brilliance.

The SSEF states further that the ruby “with its combination of outstanding characteristics is a very exceptional gemstone” (estimate $6,800,000-9,000,000).

Among the other standout pieces which will be offered in November is a rare and exceptional sapphire, weighing 27.54 carats (estimate $3,000,000-6,000,000).

The stone, which is certified of Kashmir origin, exhibits a very attractive and saturated velvety blue colour, combined with a very high purity. These features elevate Kashmir sapphires above all others and the appearance of such a fine example weighing over 20 carats is an extremely rare event.

“Connoisseurs will appreciate the quality of a superb diamond ring by Graff. The marquise-shaped diamond weighing 16.37 carats is D Colour, Internally Flawless, Type IIa (estimate $1,800,000-3,000,000),” stated Sotheby’s.

‘Graff Diamonds’ is a British multinational jeweller based in London. Its operations comprise the design, manufacture and retail distribution of high-end jewellery and watches.

Founded in London in 1960 by Laurence Graff, the company adheres to the Kimberly process, never knowingly buying or trading rough diamonds from areas where it would encourage conflict or human suffering. The majority of Graff diamonds are laser engraved with unique Gemological Institute of America tracking numbers, which whilst invisible to the naked eye, allow for its origin to be traced.

Meanwhile, illustrating Mavrommatis’ remarkable eye for the finest craftsmanship and inventive design, the selection will feature three exquisite jewels by JAR, widely acknowledged as one of the most respected and arguably the greatest jewellers of the late 20th and early 21st century.

Admirers of his work will delight in a pair of very fine natural pearl, ruby and diamond earrings, each featuring a button-shaped natural pearl within a bombé surround of circular cut rubies and single-cut diamonds ($300,000-500,000).

According to The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Paris-based American jeweller Joel A Rosenthal (JAR) is one of the world’s most influential gem artists. His jewellery is among some of the world’s most sought-after auction pieces.

Raised in the Bronx, New York, the 70-year-old designer is highly regarded for his pavé work, a technique that entails setting diminutive gems in even smaller settings to create a rolling surface of stones.

More than just setting assorted gems, JAR uses pavés as a method for creating multidimensional objects. Much like a painter, he uses various tones of coloured stones to shade and highlight the figures he’s setting, which typically take the shape of flowers and butterflies.

His creative instincts, however, began in needlepoint, a craft in which he is also an expert. He has been called the ‘Fabergé of our time’ by designer Diane von Furstenberg and the ‘single greatest jeweller of our time’ by former loyal client Ellen Barkin, who purchased more than a dozen of his pieces while married to billionaire Ron Perelman.

Unlike other jewellery designs that depreciate in value after their original purchase, JAR’s creations have been shown to typically double in value when auctioned.

In Sotheby’s Geneva sale, a selection of fine diamonds and coloured diamonds will also stand out. It includes a ‘Fancy Yellow’ diamond pendant by Gübelin. The delightful old mine brilliant diamond weighs 55.19 carats (estimate $1,000,000-2,000,000).

Besides these jewels, the exhibition also presents noble jewels by Queen Josephine’s pearls: a stunning historic natural pearl necklace, formerly in the collection of Joséphine de Beauharnais (1807-1876), Queen of Sweden and Norway.

The necklace was inherited from her mother, Princess Augusta of Bavaria, Duchess of Leuchtenberg (1788-1856), who likely received it as a gift from her mother-in-law Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814), Empress of the French.

Well-documented royal provenance adds to the value of this double row of beautiful round, white pearls with seven detachable pear-shaped drops ($800,000 – 1,400,000).

The exhibition is on till October 12 and can be viewed between 2pm-10pm.