The centre of Caceres, a dreamy Spanish city that has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1983 thanks to its excellent state of preservation. The city is the capital of the Extremadura.
By Manuel Meyer
For most tourists, the Spanish town of Caceres is not on the list of must-see places. That’s a pity since this idyllic provincial capital in the Extremadura has been awarded Unesco heritage status. It is also one of the most authentic and unspoilt places in Spain.
The Romans left behind their foundations, the Arabs bequeathed fortresses and cisterns, while noble Spanish families were responsible for building countless handsome palaces.
It all adds up to a city where not a great deal has changed for many hundreds of years. The cultural relics and buildings are in fine fettle and the only thing missing are the usual hordes of tourists. Being named a world cultural city in 1986 did little to alter that. Caceres remains largely deserted.
Not that local tourist officials are short of ideas on how to lure visitors. Helping them are people such as Helga de Alvear a Madrid-based German gallery owner. In 2010, she used part of her art collection to open the art centre Centro de Artes Visuales — Fundación Helga de Alvear. Until then blocks of stone were the chief cultural remnants here. Now the gallery is renowned for displaying the works of world famous artists such as Pablo Picasso or China’s Ai Weiwei.
The art collector is not the only person trying to jump-start the tourist industry in Caceres. Back in 1994 the regional government spent a lot of money restoring the Museo Vostell in Malpartida which lies near the city.
The museum and adjacent park are dotted with unusual installations by German-born artist and local resident Wolf Vostell along with works by Antonio Saura and Salvador Dali.
The Mercedes Calles y Carlos Ballestero Foundation opened the Palacio de los Becerra as far back as 2006. Since then discerning visitors have had the double delight of being able to see one of the city palaces from the inside and enjoy art shows staged on the top two floors.
These are of a high standard more likely to be encountered in world famous museums such as the Prado. The foundation has already attracted art lovers from all over Spain to exhibitions devoted to Murillo, Rembrandt and Andy Warhol.
Numerous dealer galleries have opened in recent years and the street cafes are alive with literary events such as lively readings in Spanish by members of the Rumor Visual collective of authors.
A large number of local restaurants, such as the Madruelo or the new Atrio Relais & Chateau hotel with its 2-star eatery, offer modern, experimental cuisine based on regionally grown products.
Two years ago a dozen actors teamed up with city guides to offer alternative tours of the Caceres.
One of them is Vicente Rodriguez. Dressed in the garb of a medieval bard and story-teller, he regularly escorts groups from the main Plaza Mayor through the Arco de la Estrella, an entrance through the city walls, into a labyrinth of silent, winding alleys.
Vicente tells of the mighty Moorish fortifications that date back to the 12th century and of the Bujaco fortified towers. He describes the fierce and bloody 15th century feuding of the War of the Castillian Succession during which Queen Isabella I of Castile ordered the tearing down of towers built by the aristocratic followers of her rival Johanna.
Vicente also takes visitors to the narrow alleyways of the old Jewish Quarter for a look at the San Antonio Church, a former synagogue. In Caceres it seems that there are layers of history behind every stone and even Spaniards are taken aback by the surprises in store here. — DPA
