By Christopher Ratter/DPA/Frankfurt


Back in 2012, Karl Lagerfeld was emphatic: “Whoever wears jogging pants has lost control of his life,” he said.
If he’s right, then we should be concerned for the welfare of a good many people, because jogging outfits have conquered the streets and even the catwalk.
Not only have they become socially acceptable, they have become a symbol for how men want to dress - relaxed and sporty.
“The complete wave of health, fitness, sport and eternal youth has for years had an unbelievable influence on fashion,” says Michael Werner of the German weekly for the textile industry, Textilwirtschaft. “Everything should have a bit more zip and drive,” he says.
The dynamism in fashions late this year is to be found in the cut and snug fit, with the so-called slim fit establishing itself as the most popular.
Astrid Werle, bespoke tailor from Dusseldorf, has recognised a similar trend in her area of expertise: “With sports jackets, the trend is toward tapered and narrow, and no longer as extremely short as in previous years.”
The trend in suits is fundamentally moving toward a simple reduced look, often in dark colours. Similarly with shirts, the cut remains slim.
Likewise less emphasis is placed on flashy details such as coloured button-holes, but rather to allow the material to stand out. Often you’re see microprints - little prints and diamonds - on shirts that are always subtle, never flamboyant.
Werle sees many ideas coming out of sportswear that enrich classical men’s wear. “In trousers for example, things are really happening. We’re seeing not only track pants with drawstrings but also slim cargo pants in woollen quality. Sport meets classic tailoring and vice versa.”
The German Fashion Institute (DMI) in Cologne in a trend report for later in the year, pairs casual elegance with urban sportliness as two of the central directions. Often these ideas blend into collections as “casual hybrids.”
“The hybrid character of fashion also stems from the fact that we are moving between worlds in our lifestyles,” says Gerd Mueller-Thomkins, DMI president.
So what you’re seeing now is no longer only functional jackets in one shop and smart-looking sport coats in an other. Suddenly there are bespoke outdoor sports coats made out of functional material. Or a classic brogue will get a sporty sneaker sole.
“A lot in men’s fashion turns on sportiness, ease and function,” says Mueller-Thomkins.
Here the market and fashion are following the zeitgeist. Modern fashion accordingly has to be wearable above all, and at the same time individual and flexible.
Astrid Werle too has noticed a growing trend toward individuality. Ever more customers are extremely well informed, coming into her shop with exact expectations, she says.
“Men’s fashions are opening up, that means, you’re seeing more courage in regard to styling, material and form.”
One of the most striking developments for the end of the year that bespoke tailors are seeing is the comeback of the woollen coat; down-filled jackets and parkas; and - what Werle has specially been seeing - blazers, pea coats and khaki-coloured jackets.
These are worn in combination with large wool or cashmere scarves. “Blue is generally a strong base colour in summer and winter,” adds Michael Werner. The variety of colours typically retreats a bit as the weather turns cold, in favour of darker tones such as maroon as well as classic grey and black that are traditionally favoured in the European winter.
According to Werner, the preference for wool will also continue in other areas of fashion in the coming months, in the form for example of rugged cardigans that play a great role out of doors and partially replace padded jackets.
“There is a certain longing for comfort, for comfortable materials, for a bit more depth, warmth and character,” says Werner. “The look in toto is becoming a little woolier, more substantial.”
Men will more than ever have greater freedom in creating their own style. Much is possible, even jogging pants with sports jackets - the main thing will be looking at ease.