By Denise Marray
The recently opened Ethan K boutique at Harrods is proving a big attraction to high-end customers who want a bag, tote or clutch that is crafted to the highest standards and declares the owner to be a person with a real sense of individuality and style. Ethan K customers are international and those who own Ethan Koh’s unique creations, including members of Qatar’s royal family, are people who value the personal creative effort he puts into each and every design. A feature especially liked by his customers from Qatar and the Gulf region is the beautifully worked strap on the handbag, which looks quite stunning when set against an abaya. When you look closely at his collection, you will find ‘The Madame’, ‘a token of gratitude to her stately beauty and eternal support’, designed for his mother; ‘The Marigay’ which embodies ‘the strength, power and passion of Ethan’s muse when they first met in Marrakech’; and ‘The Kathleen’, named for ‘the ambassador of young talent who welcomed him into a world of regal desires’. There is also a really elegant design called ‘The Thani’. His creation, ‘The Helen’, is for Helen David, fashion director of womenswear, accessories, fine jewellery and childrenswear at Harrods. He credits David with encouraging him to develop his ‘Wildlife Odyssey’ collection inspired by his love of nature. “I want to say a big thank you to Harrods for believing in my dreams. We first launched in Harrods two years ago with a small range that has grown exponentially,” he said. Koh uses the finest crocodile and alligator skins in his designs; his knowledge of these materials has been handed down through four generations. It was his great grandfather (1887-1950), described as ‘an audacious travelling trader from China’, who learnt the art of exotic leather tanning from a British artisan. This was the start that ultimately led to the formation of Heng Long leather in Singapore; Ethan grew up with a tannery located at the back of the family home and learnt the art of the Bombe Shine Crocodile, a secret Koh polishing-heating technique using agate stone. He learned that the finest skins come from the smaller scaled Australian Porosus saltwater crocodile. “Out of the 800 bags a year that I make, only fifty pieces are from the saltwater crocodile and they are for my best customers,” he explained. It was during his teenage years, when he spent time at the bag and shoe ateliers of Tuscany, that he became inspired to design. He developed his knowledge at his father’s tannery, working with the exotic leathers selection teams for leading luxury houses, Hermes and Prada. He subsequently completed a BA in Fashion Management at the London College of Fashion and a course in bag making at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design. He interned at Hermes and Louis Vuitton. In 2011, his debut collection was shown at Claridge’s Hotel, Mayfair, and in November of the same year his collection was launched in Harrods. So, success has come at a young age for the talented designer with a passion for honouring the skills of artisans, craftsmen and dedicated family businesses in a world dominated by mass production. “In every major airport, city and high street you see the same brands; the customer Ethan K is targeting is somebody who already has everything in their wardrobe and wants something really special. If you have more than 200 handbags in your wardrobe — do you want another ten bags with big logos? You don’t need that,” he said. The Ethan K customer can be sure that the bag she carries will be special to her and reflect her personal taste. Koh often takes his inspiration from nature and the vibrant tropical colours of his native Singapore are apparent in his creations. These include colours inspired by exotic fruits such as Dragon Fruit Pink and Calamansi Green. One beautiful bag was inspired by the sunset in San Antonio, Spain. Koh has brought a totally new and fresh vision to the use of crocodile as a luxury material. His handbags come in an amazing range of colours and are adorned with precious stones and beautiful clasps. He is not driven by the relentless fashion cycles that can cause burn out in many young talents. “I don’t create many collections a year. I only launch a collection when I feel right. As a young designer, I don’t have a design team. I personally hand draw everything and I oversee the process from start to finish. It’s like creating an art piece because no two pieces are the same,” he said. In fact, his company produces less than one thousand bags per year which gives an idea of their exclusivity. “I am very close to my customers. I have more than 800 couture customers around the world,” he said. He often adds details that perfectly suit the lifestyles of his customers. For example, for the CEO of a leading technology company he designed a bag with a special compartment that could accommodate each of her five phones. From a business started just four years ago with a £3,000 loan from his father, Ethan Koh has earned his place at the very top of the luxury design market. His philosophy is to stay true to his vision of creating beautifully crafted, one of a kind bags that combine exquisite design with functionality. “I love bags and it became a business — not the other way round. You have to have a passion for what you do,” he concluded.
London
