By Anand Holla


On an outstretched arm of the Four Seasons Hotel Doha’s private marina by the Arabian Sea, a circular tri-level structure resembling an ornate coiled shell shimmers regally as dusk sets in.
Entering this architectural behemoth of a restaurant would prove to be as delightful as finding an impeccably formed pearl inside an oyster.
Often hailed as the world’s most recognised Japanese restaurant, Nobu opened in Doha in fine style around two weeks ago – as the largest Nobu in the world. Any food lover worth his wasabi knows of the man behind refashioning sushi as a signature fusion cuisine – celebrity chef and restaurateur Nobuyuki “Nobu” Matsuhisa.
As it turns out, Doha certainly is up to speed with the new-style Japanese fare that melds traditional Japanese dishes with South American ingredients. All seven dining and lounge areas of the 26,000 square-foot chic restaurant that open out to refreshing panoramic water or city views are flush with patrons.
Be it the sprawling 134-seat interior dining area, intimate 10-seat sushi counter, two exclusive private dining rooms, suave White Pearl and Black Pearl Lounges, or a one-of-a-kind 38-seat roof top lounge that encompasses both indoor and outdoor seating options; the place is busy and buzzing.
Every guest is walked into the dining area by the attendant, at which the whole staff collectively shouts Irashaimasu (Japanese for welcome). The call rings with a celebratory echo. This never gets old. Often, a good number of patrons hooked to their dinner, pause and take a look.
The ambience in the impressively designed dining area reeks of exclusivity – as if those gathered at these tables belong to some privileged club. At some distance, chefs can be seen weaving their sushi magic in a flurry of rolls and chops, while a DJ on the floor above, spins some cool lounge tracks.
The adventure starts with the appetisers that seem to have a knack for making friends with taste buds – Veg Hot Misochips and Tomato Ceviche are spot on at opening the game. The Spinach Dry Miso is big on texture and delicious, too. The assorted vegetarian sushi platter, featuring neatly diced and rolled veggie packets of yum, is a rush of layers, textures, and bold flavours that characterise Nobu’s élan.
Of course, there’s the choicest of seafood extravaganza in the form of the popular dishes such as the Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno, Lobster with Wasabi Pepper Sauce, and of course, the Black Cod Miso.
Foodie Roohi Khatri, who seemed to have had a thoroughly good time tucking into Nobu’s hot favourites, said, “The plating of the Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno itself indicated that it was going to be a good dish. I loved the burst of green chilli flavour with the sashimi.”
As for the assorted sushi and sashimi, Khatri said, “One of the Sushi rolls was with olive oil and the fusion of Japanese and Italian tasted surprisingly heavenly. The Black Cod Yuzumiso, Nobu’s signature dish, is a fish cooked so well that you can eat it with chopsticks and so flavoursome that you can’t stop eating.”
Interestingly, the Japanese Eggplant Miso, a melt-in-the-mouth serving of halved eggplant well done with a smattering of deep-running flavours, mimics The Black Cod dish, and does so fabulously.
After this satisfying run, the desserts seemed determined to close the meal on a high. Nobu-style Cheesecake struck the right balance of creamy and spongy; the Seasonal Fruit Crumble effected a controlled explosion of sweet and tangy flavours; and the Caramelised Vanilla Cake was as lip-smacking as it sounds.
Chef Matsuhisa, who is celebrating 20 years as a successful chef and restaurateur, is renowned for his loyal clientele of the world’s most affluent celebrities and connoisseurs – he had partnered with Robert De Niro and Meir Teper to open Nobu Tribeca in New York City.
Going by the food, décor, ambience and the thick footfall already, Doha’s outpost seems to be another successful Nobu that has brought conventional Japanese cuisine out of its shell.