‘The Doha crowd is simply amazing’

As if to build up the ambience of its winter menu, copious gusts of chilly breeze push their way through the soothing views of Qanat Quartier and the Arabian Gulf to greet you upon arriving at Antica Pesa.Nine months since its launch, the much-talked about Italian restaurant at Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl – Doha, which is all about ‘real Italia’ cuisine, is winning more fans in Qatar by the day – as could be seen on a cheery Ladies Night on Sunday evening, or by tennis star Novak Djokovic’s double show last week.Soon after Italian-born brothers Francesco and Simone Panella opened Antica Pesa in Williamsburg, New York, modelled on the original one in the Trastevere neighbourhood of Rome, established in 1922, the gastronomic glow of its authentic Italian fare was matched by the throng of A-list celebrities who have been frequenting it, ever since – Madonna, Al Pacino, Robert De Niro, Mick Jagger, Charlize Theron, Richard Gere, Leonardo Di Caprio, you name it.Now in Doha, the restaurant that remains true to its 17th Century family-focused roots – with four generations of the same family having managed the restaurant over the past 93 years – has established a commendable presence with its Italian fine dining fare that reworks traditional recipes from Roman cuisine and creates dishes using local organic products for seasonal dishes.Be it the tasteful artwork throughout the decor of the restaurant with pieces by artists such as Andy Warhol, De Chirico and Helmut Lang photos, or the traditional Italian recipes served with all the finesse and flavours they deserve, Antica Pesa offers a wholesome Italian fine dining experience. Community caught up with Francesco Panella, who is in town for a short while, for a chat: Nine months on, how do you see Antica Pesa’s journey in Doha thus far?First of all, I must say how surprised I am by what Doha has given to us. We started off with a lot of wonder, and the people of Qatar, especially the Qataris, have been so incredible with us in this journey by trying our food and absorbing the place. As an Italian, I have to take care of so many things related to the food, the feel, and the whole experience of dining here. I have to be an ambassador of Italian cuisine, and the patrons have been very open in listening to what we have to say. It has been fantastic to talk to people about the food, the menu, the ingredients, the local farm and all my work, and try and do things together. I have discovered how curious people here in Doha are about food and how passionate they feel about it. Novak Djokovic dropped by a couple of times last week. How was it having him?I know him from his visits to Antica Pesa in New York City and Rome because whenever he is down there to play at tennis tournaments, he and his team visit my restaurant. It’s unbelievable how humble Novak is. He is one of the best guys there is. It was nice to spend time with him. One dinner was official, while the other time he came by on his own. That was sweet of him. How different is it to run Antica Pesa here than it is in, say NYC or Rome?Antica Pesa is an institution that has been running from 100 years. The Doha crowd is simply amazing. There’s such an interesting mood and vibe to this place. Since I am very curious by nature, I talk to people who visit the restaurant just as I do elsewhere. That way, I don’t see much difference. Basically, selling 100 years of history is not easy because we need to talk a lot. Just eating a dish won’t tell you the whole story. Instead of opening the restaurant in other parts of the world, I wanted to reach out in the Gulf. Opening it in Doha has been the best choice. How varied have you found the taste palate here to be?You need to be able to speak the same language to people no matter where you go. If my patrons have some issue, I need to be close to them, they don’t need to be close to me. Without losing my natural vibe and energy, I must be able to speak to them and find a solution. So you need to be ready to change your menu and make your customer happy. Obviously, in Rome, they expect the food to be more traditional. Fortunately, in Doha, people understand rather well and are happy with our food, which makes me immensely happy.